1. Take your cutting from a healthy looking branch that isn’t very “woody” – green and flexible cuts seem to do the best.
2. Use a STERILE razor to make a diagonal cut in the stem and lightly shave the outer layer off of the bottom inch, then dip in a rooting powder or gel like clonex.
3. This is the biggie – whatever medium you are using, make sure it is BARELY damp with distilled or RO water. If your medium is too wet it will take forever to root and your stem may rot before that happens.
4. Dome your cuts to keep humidity in. If they seem to wilt, spray the inside TOP of the dome (not the cuts) to raise humidity.
5. After 3 days, start cracking your dome until they wilt, then cover again.
6. Only give your medium enough water to stay slightly damp – never wet. Squeeze out your plugs if they get too wet.
7. Adding Azos (as directed) to the distilled/RO water you use to moisten your plugs before you stick your cuts in will speed up rooting.
8. Your goal is to keep the cuts BARELY alive so as to trigger the plants survival mechanism and throw off some roots. If they are too wet they get lazy.
VERTICAL GARDEN FOR VEG: For more years than I care to admit, I’ve been growing my clones, seedlings, and small veging plants on the floor of a tent or the floor of my grow room. Not only is it hard on the knees and a pain in the ass, it’s messy and takes up a bunch of space. After looking at the sick-ass vertical gardens that the big light companies display at BizCon and the various cannabis conventions, I decided to take a crack at a DIY version and it CAME OUT GREAT! I’m not much of a DIY kind of guy so when I say this is easy, please take it at face value – this is really f***ing easy! I went to Costco’s website to buy a wire shelving unit (about $120 US) but you can get a similar one at all of the big box stores for about the same price. Then I purchased some 4 foot led light bars – I found a package with 6 for about $115 that come with accessories to attach them to whatever shelves you use – since I got the wire shelves the zip ties were super simple and attached in minutes. The lights themselves daisy chain together so you only have one switch to operate the whole thing. Here’s a picture (not great, but you’ll get the idea) of what it looks like finished. Start to finish you should be able to get this done in under an hour.
I purchased the 4 foot LED bars from this company for around $120
Here are the DIY plans for the MALE ISOLATION CHAMBER posted by Logic from THCFarmer:
“This iss a little tutorial on how to grow your males right next to your females.It’s a box that isolates the male and filters all the air that moves through the box so that no pollen escapes.I built my first one of these about 4 years ago and posted it at OG.This will be the third box I’ve constructed.They are fairly simple to construct and if you purchase all of the materials new you will spend probably $40-$60.
Here’s an idea of what you’ll need:
Just about any computer fan should work for this.Just set the fan on the filter and trace around it with a pen then cut out the squares with a good heavy pair of scissors.I usually use two layers of filter for the fan to draw through.Try to use the best quality filter you can.I really like these purple Filtrete,they have the highest filtration rating I can find and they are easy to tape to the fan.
Once you’ve cut the squares you stack them on top of each other and then the fan on top.Then run some duct tape around it making a seal and mating them all together.Make sure the fan is pulling air through the filter,not pushing.
Now you need to make a hole in the top of the box,I have a 4” hole saw that worked perfect for this.
Next you need to seal the fan assembly to the box with some adhesive.You can use just about anything,silicone,latex,liquid nails.
Now you need to make a hole in the lid for an intake.Use a piece of left over filter to cover the hole and seal it with adhesive.
That’s about all there is to it.Just plug in the fan and it gently draws air through the box keeping the plant alive and the pollen contained.Here’s a pic with a female in the box to give an idea.I also screwed a board to the bottom for stability.
As you can see a clear box works best but you can use a solid box if you cut out the lid and put plexi-glass in it.
When my males show I take them out of the hydroton and re-plant them in soil then put them in the box,I can get about three in this one.I take the box away from the grow and gently open it for watering the males. I’ve been using this method for several years now without any problems.”
Once you collect the pollen, you can use a paintbrush to make your own seeds on a bud, a branch, or the entire plant depending on how many seeds you want to make. If you want to store the pollen for more than a few days make sure you use a desiccant and store it in the fridge.
May your gardens stay green and your jars remain full!
Greetings! I hope your garden is green and your jars are full. I have been doing quite a bit of research on tissue culture propagation over the last few months and I am pretty sure this is the way of the future for maintaining clones over long periods of time.
If you’re not familiar with TCP, it is basically a way to rid a clone of bugs, disease/viruses, and “rejuvenate” it in a sterile sugar-based medium, create hundreds of clones in a very small space, and retard growth for easy storage. For people that pop seeds all the time this is probably of little to no interest, but for people that are trying to maintain large libraries of living genetics or that want to restore vigor to 20 year old clones, this is potentially a miracle.
Rather than spend any more time with a half-ass explanation, I have attached one of the better videos on the subject (that I’ve found, at least) that you can peruse at your leisure.
Another benefit of note is that this methodology can potentially be used to “rescue” really old seeds that have very little viability and that would never germinate under normal conditions.
TCP is really cool, even if you’re never going to do it yourself. Be sure to check the video.
There are many different ways to clone your plants, but aerocloners may be the fastest. You can buy them easily enough but for those of you that enjoy DIY or that don’t want to spring for the extra cash, I’ve lifted some plans to build your own for a fraction of the price. Many thanks to KingRalph from ICMag for putting this together. The rest of this issue are the step-by-step plans to build your own. Thanks for reading, and I hope you enjoy!
350GPH Danner Supreme Mag-Drive Utility Pump Model 3 (Model 5 500GPH for larger units)
35x 2inch Neoprene Insert Collars (only 50cents a pop in the 35x bag
Have you pulled these things out of your back pocket yet? Vundeba, let’s begin constructing…
1. Screw the 1/2″ Female PVC onto the pump output…
2. Cut PVC pipe for a length that ends up at least 6″ below the top of the tub. Remember, you can always cut more off later, so don’t cut too short. Clean all ends of plastic, and stick the pipe in the pump’s fitting.
3. Stick 1/2″ Tee on the pipe…
4. Cut 2 equal lengths to go the long distance of the tub…
5. Put the 2 last Tees on the ends…
6. Cut 4 equal length short pieces and stick in Tees after cleaned…
7. Attach the 4 elbows…
8. Measure and Cut 2 more equal length pieces to fit your rectangle, clean, and check to see how your barebones fits together…
9. Now take apart the PVC and with an 11/32 drill bit (or 10/32 tap) drill holes for the sprayers in the pipes, and screw in the misters. sealing these isn’t really necessary, also your pvc should fit together tightly enough not to need sealing either.
As you can see that 18gal tub was a bit small, so i got the 31gal with plenty of space. Longer PVC, more misters, and a bigger pump and tub will allow you a bigger cloner, simple as that, design remains the same…
10. The Lid… drill the 2″ holes you need. Clean the stray plastic off the holes without enlarging them, do no cut the plastic further yknow. Here you can either drop in 2″ netpots, or what i had to do on some is to hot glue around the outside of the hole so the neoprene collars stuck in nicely, no netpot to fall in or for roots to get tangled in, or to buy note: experience has shown users to cut the bottom half of netpots off so roots are not damaged on removal…
Keep an eye on temps, they should be 68-78, 75F optimal.
That’s it. I hope some of you find this tutorial helpful. Until next time… May your gardens be green and your bud jars full.
A smooth transplant is a beautiful experience for a plant. The plastic walls limiting its root growth are graciously replaced with more soil, and the roots will quickly expand to new territories, promoting a burst of new growth! With a proper transplant, there is no such thing as “transplant shock” at all, rather it is quite the opposite, your plant will immediately become happy and grow faster than before, even overnight!
When to transplant? When your plant has outgrown its container, which I consider to be the point when the plant needs a full watering every single day. The roots have filled the container and it’s time to put it into a bigger one. The larger the pot you put it into, the more space the roots will get to grow into, and the faster your plant will grow. Plastic containers are actually designed to keep plants small and constricted. You should use the largest containers you can, based on the space available and number of plants, in order to get fastest growth. If you want slower growth, such as maintaining many plants in a small space, choose a pot that is only one size bigger with each transplant, and you’ll slow things down. Wider pots also promote wider, branchy, faster growth.
If you plan to transplant again later, use a plastic pot. If you plan to flower the plant in the container you are transplanting into, use fabric pots for best results. These are better for the roots, but you do not want to transplant out of them later as you’ll rip the roots in doing so. The roots should be treated as a delicate living thing and you’ll want to avoid any damage.
Put some new soil in the bottom of your new container. You’ll want to fill it so that once your plant sits on top of it, the soil level is near the top of the container, being slightly under the very top so you can water it without spilling easily. If you would like, add a light dusting of Optiveg and Myco product like Great White, right where your new plant will sit. This is not at all necessary, but increases root growth. Hold the plant by the bottom of its pot, and put your other hand on top of the soil, with the stem of the plant between your fingers. You will then carefully flip the plant upside down, and slide it out of its pot. You shouldn’t be losing big clumps of soil, the roots should be grown enough to hold it together, or soil should be slightly moistened to help keep it together. Now, after removing the old pot, put your free hand back on the bottom of the root mass, flip the plant right-side-up, and place it into the new pot. Fill the pot with soil around the plant, lightly pat down, and then give your plant a full watering. This is important, because the roots will only adventure into new moist soil, and will not initially start to grow through dry soil. You should have a small amount of runoff at the bottom to know you are fully saturating the medium.
You’re done! Over the next few days, and weeks, you will see much faster growth in your plant, happy in its new home!
A lot of people have requested information about reversing the sex of a female plant to produce male pollen. The text from this post was pulled from the forums – Fet gets credit for much of the research and a kind (and currently unknown member) assembled it as it appears below.
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to: A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use D: accelerate the “interview” phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Check out Robert Clarke’s “Marijuana Botany”, which is a very good reference.
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there… the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven’s Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS: First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It’s pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer’s Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That’s 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
Application: The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won’t smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a “F>M plant”; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn’t finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects: Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I’ll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don’t worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn’t get released accidently. Point downwind; don’t let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don’t forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it’s flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals: Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies’ eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn’t notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.
For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:
Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.
Have fun experimenting with this technique. Use it responsibly. There are a few good threads here at CW that go into the pros and cons of transsexual agents and feminized seeds. Read them. And most importantly, use STS with quality F1 strains developed by professional breeders for the most consistent results.
A huge thanks to Fet from Spice Brothers Seeds for his help and advice in using this technique. I simply brought together available information from previous posts and tried my own recipe. I’m thrilled to share the results. Future tests will be done to adjust the formula so the molar ratios of the chemicals are correct, as specified by Gobgoober (thanks, Gob) but the formula posted here is completely effective.
My special guest this issue is Matt Riot, who has kindly offered to share his Advanced Seed Germination Tutorials with you good folks. Not everyone is going to want to follow these instructions, but for rare, expensive, or older beans this information is top level stuff.
Matt is the owner of Riot Seeds “The 1st and Only Punk Fucking Rock Seed Company”. Matt has been in the game for a long time and works with some fine genetics – you can find him on Instagram @riotseedco – there are 3 short videos and I’ve posted them in order.
There is a trick…more like a technique, that can help in any breeding project.
This information was passed to me (and others) by someone well known to the breeding community, and we were asked not to share it. However if any of you have read the ‘My Best’ thread, you know I am on my way out the door and am passing my best old school genetics around so the ‘new generation’ of breeders and smokers can beneift…as well as my old stoner friends lol.
I have also decided to divulge this information after much consternation and angst, because I am not sure if it will ever become public domain if I do not, and I fully believe it should be. This is/was a very difficult decision to make. But hey, WTF, it is what it is. People who are interested should know. Hoarding information is as bad as hoarding clones.
The first person I know of to use this breeding technique in the MJ world was a man named Nevil Schoenbottom, who passed it to Shantibaba, who passed it to another person who passed it to me(and others). The trick is using what some breeders ‘in the know’ call recessive males.
No one I know of who got this information paid much attention to it, or at least ran with it. The only reason I am different is because I stumbled upon a recessive male by accident but didn’t realize what I had found until after a few crops of outcrossing him and noticing I was getting all the traits I wanted passed to the offspring. I suddenly realized what I had in a rare moment of clarity. As a bonus the dominant traits he passed were increased potency and tighter buds. I think this was just a fluke though.
I am no expert in genetics at all, in fact my knowledge is rudimentary, but this is how it was explained to me.
Recessive males are males that have a large number of double recessive genes for the traits most sought after by MJ breeders. Ie aa as opposed to Aa or AA. If you know something about genetics there should be a light bulb going on right now.
When males that have recessive genes for the traits we want passed from the mother, because they are dominant in the mother they will combine as Aa. ‘A’ from the AA mother and ‘a’ from the father, and express the trait you want to see in all of the F1 female offspring. There will also be males from the offsrping that combine the same way for this trait ie Aa. If these two sibling plants are combined, using P-Squares we can see there will be a certain % which combine as AA and the trait will be fixed by breeding these offspring. This really eliminates a lot of work.
Fine in theory Roz(I hear you saying) but how can I find and identify these males? This is key to the application. This information was never passed to me or the others that were privy to the recessive male concept and is perhaps why no one did anything with it. But I will pass it to you now.
These males can be identified easily in some cases, because unlike dominant males which flower earlier than sibling females the recessive males flower later. In addition, it stands to reason that if Shantibaba uses this technique, these males can be found in larger numbers within his seedstock. So there it is, with apologies to Shanti, Nevil and the person who told me about it.
If you have an in depth understanding of genetics and don’t believe this or consider it anecdotal only, feel free to express those ideas, but I will not argue it with you. I am only passing on what was told to me and found that at least in my case it was true.